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The Unique Charm of Xela

There are few more interesting places to live and study than the city of Quetzaltenango. Commonly known among Guatemalans by its Quiche name of Xela (Shay-la), the city is situated in a mountain valley at an altitude of 7500 feet, amid spectacular peaks and volcanoes. Its altitude gives it a perfect climate—daytime high temperatures never exceed 85*F or drop below 55*F. It is the site of three universities and the home of many of Guatemala's outstanding writers and artists; it prides itself on its reputation as "The Cradle of National Culture." The city serves as the commercial and cultural center of the vast rural region known as the Altiplano, where Guatemala's indigenous population still carries on subsistence agriculture by methods that predate the Conquest. The majority of the city's population are Maya-Quiche Indians, many of whom still wear their traditional clothing in daily life. Xela has few slums for a city of its size (pop. 125,000).

Despite its many attractions, Xela has not become a tourist center and is not one of the usual stops on the "Gringo Trail." Unlike other cities such as Antigua, Guatemala City, and San Jose, Costa Rica, there are very few English speakers among Xela's inhabitants—a fact which benefits students of Spanish because it forces them to use the language in every aspect of daily life.

Although Xela is still a relatively safe city, some things have changed since Centro Pop Wuj was founded in 1991, mainly due to the increase in the number of cars, resulting in more noise and pollution. Nevertheless, Xela remains more of a sprawling town than a typical city. It is the real Guatemala, without the intensity one feels in the capital city of "Guáte." Its architecture is a hodgepodge of adobe, reinforced concrete, and modern steel construction, and it has some very interesting historic neigborhoods (one of which may hopefully soon be transformed into a historic district). There are narrow, winding, hilly streets that contribute to its charm and sense of timelessness. If you study in Xela, you will get to know the country and the surrounding highlands, learn from well-educated teachers, and experience lower prices than you find in other tourist centers. Just keep in mind that it is not a lovely, manicured playground, like Antigua in Guatemala or Cuernavaca in Mexico. Quetzaltenango is a place students grow to appreciate for its unique qualities, and because it is home to some very special people.